From Lago Atitlan, Guatemala
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OK. I have got myself situated again. A lovely Guatemalan hillside village on the shore of Lake Atitlan, about 10 miles by 5 miles, surrounded by dramatic volcanic mountains. Colorfully dressed people bustle along narrow meandering cobblestone streets. They are incredibly friendly and unshy.
It is truly fantastic to me, takes my breath away . I have enrolled in a Spanish course for 4 days and was given a choice of staying in a room at the school for an extra $1USD/night, staying with a family or on my own, plus the free use of kayaks. The family I would have chosen is a Guatemalan painter with a restaurant, Cafe Arte, and a family. However, I fell in love with a hotel room overlooking the lake and mountains with an outdoor kitchen and hammock for $2USD/night. It is also a Guatemalan family with 2 young girls who want to learn some English. I visit Cafe Arte in my free time and enjoy talking to Pedro about local art and textiles.
The village shops are old style, with the counter at the front of the shop and all the goods behind, so you give the clerk your grocery list. Some houses still use wood fires for cooking inside yet have no chimney. It is very basic. So basic that when I asked for a village map I was directed to Municipal Hall and there they offered to copy me a civic map. So basic that newspapers hang in the bathroom in lieu, pun intended, of toilet paper. When you order food, if it is not busy, you have to wait for them to rekindle the fire. And it is not busy at all because all tourists were afraid Hurricane Mitch devastated all of Guatemala. At the shoreline are some docks and beaches but mainly coffee plantations. Trails cross the fields and every now and then a funky restaurant or inn, some old gringos who stayed on. Apparently San Pedro, where I am, is in the international cannabis mag as thee place to be–no police. Yesterday I kayaked 8 km - for the first time in my life. Another day hiked to 3 other villages. Each village has its own distinct colors and patterns. I wish I could go to each and every one. It is so visually rich here.
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Posted by Anne Wichmann on September 3rd, 2003 in Articles.
