Fiesta de San Pedro - Day 31

It’s only a few miles into Santa Domingo de la Calzada, founded by its namesake, another saint who dedicated his life to helping pilgrims on their way (after he was refused entry to San Milan monastery due to his illiteracy). The cathedral is, however, more famous for its chickens, chirping away incongruously in a gilded cage high on the wall inside. These relate to a miracle which occurred here in the early Middle Ages. A family of German pilgrims was staying in the town when their son was propositioned by the innkeeper’s daughter. Being a devout pilgrim, he spurned her advances. Pride dented, she hid some of the church’s silver in his pack and reported him to the authorities as a thief. After being found guilty, the young man was executed according to the custom of the time; which meant being hung and then left on a gibbet to rot. His parents (seemingly taking this heartbreak in their stride) continued their pilgrimage to Compostela, and again stayed in Santa Domingo on their return journey. They approached the gibbet to find their son was still alive (personally, I think they should have checked the month before). They ran to tell the Mayor this incredible news. The mayor was eating roast chicken for supper at the time; being keen on his food his was angry at the disturbance and exclaimed ‘Your son is about as alive as this chicken!’, whereupon the birds on his plate reassembled themselves, complete with feathers, and flew away, chirping. It’s the very same birds that have been kept in the cathedral ever since – apparently.

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