Gili Trawangan: Bare Foot Island, and Nowhere to Go

July 1993: The ferry from Bali slipped from the dock just after noon, under a bright tropical sun. The engine's low thumping barely penetrated the din of the passengers. With my back against a steel support, I opened my journal and enjoyed watching my Parker fountain pen lay out a thin blue line across the page as effortlessly as the wake the ferry drew across the Lombok Strait. It was an impressive passage. The channels that separate the islands of Indonesia are not all that deep in geological terms, with the single exception of the narrow tongue of water that separates Bali from Lombok. During the Ice Ages when Indonesia was a dry range of mountains running down a long peninsula, Bali remained separated from Lombok by a 600 meter deep channel of water. It is now known as the Wallace line for the 19th century naturalist who identified the geological reason for the distinction in flora and fauna from Bali to Lombok.

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