Danger, Work and Pickled Eel…
Would you travel to Iraq?
If you said yes, you might be what is known as a “danger tourist”: someone who travels to dangerous places for the sake of extreme adventure.
Pickled Eel is a pretty near match for the danger tourist label, but for him, travelling to dangerous places is a part of his job. Recently, he travelled throughout the Middle East, including several weeks in Baghdad.
TravelBlogs caught up with him via email to talk about travelling for work, the Middle East and pickled eels, of course!
Pickled eel… Is that a delicacy you’d recommend?
Absolutely, it sure is. In fact, the title of the blog comes from an accidental drinking of a pickle recipe that included eel and a whole lot of other unidentifiable things. It was one of those hilarious China experiences that are unexpected, potentially dangerous but something you would not experience visiting your local Starbucks. Unfortunately. The story is the first post on the blog.
You seem to travel quite extensively for work. Do you think this kind of business-related travel is an enjoyable way to travel? Or does the “work” factor diminish the enjoyment somewhat?
I can’t think of any travel I have put off or declined because it was too dangerous.
I am fortunate that I travel on my own (mostly) so the work dimension does not diminish the experience. In fact in many respects it enhances the experience since the people you meet often are influential, or have unique access into their communities in some way. In Iraq, for example, I met some senior government staff who gave some very interesting insights into the situation there. Of course, the opportunity is taken to speak to everybody you possibly can, at every level of the community. Actually, right now you only get a visa for that country if you are military or have business activities to justify the visit. So work travel offers some “access” advantages.
In Bangladesh, work put me in front of the former “surgeon general” who took me to his club – which was the old British Army Officers mess in Chittagong. It still has bullet holes in the walls from the War of Independence and honour boards going back to the 19th century. A place and people you would not ordinarily be exposed to if you were holidaying there - if you would ever holiday there actually! On the other hand, I spent a week of a holiday on the Vietnam/Cambodia border with a grandmother who fought the French and Americans as a young woman – an illuminating experience to say the least.
I am in the habit of dropping bags in a room the moment I get to a place and walking the streets. I have done that for the last twenty years, whether my travel is business or leisure, whether it is domestic or international. Meeting the locals is what it is all about. I meet the most amazing people that way. In short, whether business or leisure, I make sure I create, seize and enjoy the experience.
Since you spend so much time on the road for work, what does a holiday look like for you? Does it still involve travel, or do you prefer to stick closer to home?
I still prefer to travel. Last year I took three weeks in China and Thailand. Other holiday destinations (outside Australia) have been Vietnam, India, the US and New Zealand. Even building a hospital clinic in the Solomon Islands. But there are breaks at home where an old house we recently moved into needs a whole lot of work and is distracting me with its needs of late.
You have been to places like Iraq and Jordan, which many people would consider too dangerous to travel around. Have you ever said no to travelling somewhere because you considered it too dangerous?
I had to think long and hard about this since I have been in some hairy places - I did not want “never” to sound too glib. But I can’t think of any travel I have put off or declined because it was too dangerous. (In hindsight there have been aircraft in India I should never have boarded). You assess whether the issue is security or safety. They are two different things.
All of Sydney is secure, but not all of Sydney is safe. The same goes for any other city. Or small village for that matter. Perhaps the most dangerous travel was a trip I did on my own to a city that was being rocked by riots and the military had been brought in to quell things. They did so very roughly. But at the end of each day, when the rioters (and there were tens of thousands of them) went home for dinner (I am of course being a little flippant) the soldiers rested on the kerbs, cooked meals and sang songs. The place was not secure by most definitions, but it was safe – I had some memorable moments with some of those soldiers in the early hours of the morning as they sat around playing guitars and cooking their meals. But the press of course was painting a far worse picture. If I had thought the place secure but not safe I would not have gone. Assess the risk, see what you can mitigate and then get on that plane. But then I am bit of a risk taker as well. I would hasten to add that most of the Middle East is very safe. Saudi, Yemen, even walking into Palestine. And certainly Jordan, which is a very safe part of the world. Like any area, just be sensible about where and when you walk. Having a wander with your compact Canon camera in front of rock throwing Palestinians when an Israeli Army patrol is about would not be smart. But that should not stop a visit to Palestine – which is a brilliant place to go by the way.
Do you think the risk-factor actually adds to the appeal of travelling to dangerous places?
An awareness of the risk means you are tuned into the way people live, how they are coping, who they are. And what is going on. I think it is hard being the average tourist if there is an element of risk.
Yes, I think so. Provided you are sensible about how you assess and mitigate that risk. And I would question any motive of anyone who was visiting a place for some sort of vicarious experience. But an element of risk means you are not wandering around with your mind in neutral. Well, more fool you if you are. An awareness of the risk means you are tuned into the way people live, how they are coping, who they are. And what is going on. I think it is hard being the average tourist if there is an element of risk. There is no question that Iraq is an edgy place but it is that which makes you feel very alive and tuned in to what the people around you are doing. As a result you can only come away with the most profound respect and admiration and awe for Mr Joe Iraqi Citizen for the life he is trying to recreate. You don’t feel that about the beached whales lying beside the pool in your four or five star resort. The afternoon I was back in Sydney from Iraq I was driving through pleasant leafy suburbs and found myself think how boring it all was. Nice. But boring.
Once this business trip to the Middle East is over, what’s next? Any big trips on the horizon?
Always hard to say – a couple of months ago the Middle East was not on the agenda! I hope to be back there soon although I expect South East Asia will be the next travel agenda. But a couple of days ago I read about the Australian who has just spent three years riding a horse from China into Eastern Europe. Now that has a lot of appeal!! Now I just have to figure out how to get the time off to do that and pay the mortgage at the same time.
You can follow Pickled Eel’s future adventures to South East Asia and beyond on his blog, Pickled Eel.
Posted by Eric Daams on October 9th, 2007 in Interviews.
